Have to push the rubber boot down out of the way a little) and turn the To adjust the pushrod length you slacken the lock nut (you'll probably The RHD version like mine has a fixed-position floor plate. That floor plate problem is only a problem for you guys in LHD cars. The pedal cluster which holds the cluster to the floor with anĮlongated hole in the cluster floor plate. There is a bolt on the floor (about 13mm I think) near the outer end of Pedal travel to get one circuit working even if the other has failed. It's even more critical as it will ensure that you still have enough The shoes are worn, and on 1968 and later Bugs with twin circuit brakes This is critical to getting enough pedal travel even if If it's not, adjust that distance first and then adjust Check the distanceįrom the back of the brake pedal to the frame member in front of the Reason this will affect the setting of the pushrod. The VW factory set the pushrod length and the pedal cluster position, butĪfter 42 years it could have been altered by a number of previousįirst check the floor mounting plate. In response to a query Rob has provided an excellent overview of the pushrod operation and discussion of adjustment of the pushrod length. System Description and Pushrod Adjustment The Dave's saga regarding push rod freeplay and brake pedal travel is interesting and informative. These two schools of thought are discussed in more detail toward the end of this treatise. The pedal stop has nothing to do with the way the brakes operate. Freeplay MUST be adjusted by adjusting the length of the push rod.Adjusting the rod length or the pedal stop both accomplish the same thing, but adjustment of the push rod itself is very sensitive and can easily be done incorrectly. Don't mess with the length of the push rod itself adjust the freeplay using the pedal stop in from of the pedal cluster.The first of these problems, pressurization of the brake system with attendent binding of the brakes and overheating of the brake drums, was resolved by very careful adjustment of the master cylinder push rod to assure just 5-7 mm of freeplay at the top of the brake pedal.Ī Bottom Line Note: We've found two schools of thought on adjustment of the push rod. We've written a Brake Pedal Freeplay Adjustment Procedure that may be helpful with adjusting the brake pedal freeplay. This article will deal primarily with push rod freeplay and associated problems. Pressurization of the system because of improper adjustment of the master cylinder push rod (hereinafter referred to as "push rod freeplay").Once the brakes were properly bled and adjusted, the pedal travel was normal. Dave replaced all of the brake components in all four wheels from the backing plate out. This topic is discussed thoroughly in our Brake Pedal Travel Adjustment Procedure. Excessive pedal travel before braking action actually begins (hereinafter referred to as "brake pedal travel").Get all that installed and nothing… the same thing.See also Brake Pedal Freeplay Adjustment.ĭave has had two problems with the brakes on his '73 Super Beetle that he initially thought were one and the same problem. We come to the conclusion something might be wrong in the rear system?ħ.ěuy new rear wheel cylinders, shoes, and soft lines. Have a very mechanical buddy (extensive VW history) come over for a second set of eyes, just in case I am missing something. Maybe bleeder blocked or bad batch? Buy new ones from a local vendor and install. With all hard lines removed from m/c, a pump of the pedal and fluid flows from all ports.Į.ğront hard lines inspected and free flow of air through lines, reconnected to m/c, pump of pedal had good fluid flow out hard lines, hard lines connected to soft lines and pump of pedal has good fluid flow, soft lines to wheel cylinders, crack the bleeder and minimal flow and pedal still doesn’t drop to floor.ĥ.Ět this point I assume the both new wheel cylinders must have issues. Tubes from reservoir to m/c: Freely blow air through them. Exact same result.Ĥ.ĝisassemble the entire front of braking system and start working my way from the reservoir out.Ī. Since all is new up from think maybe master cylinder is bad. Attempt to bleed fronts: Pump brakes and hold, crack the bleeder, and pedal doesn’t move (did not drop to floor).ģ. Able to get good fluid flow from rear but very little pedal pressure building. I am hoping you guys might see something I missed because I am stumped.ġ.ğront: new wheel cylinders, soft lines, shoes (adjusted shoes)Ģ.ěleed the brakes. When front wheel cylinder bleeders cracked very little fluid flow from them and the pedal doesn't drop to the floor as you would expect with the line open. Here is my problem: in bleeding the brakes I get very little pedal (maybe 2” off the floor). This car is ready to hit the road for my, newly licensed, son.
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